Celtic Spirituality 8 - Wells - 1

St. John's Well is in a secluded grove, down a foot path off a tiny lane. It  is well kept, it has prayer ribbons, flags and other bits to focus and continue the prayer in the trees just behind it.

Some parts of our explorations of Ireland have found exceptionally ancient pre-Christian roots. Some have found roots in ancient Christian practice. Some have bridged the gap from the earliest pre-Christianity to the most modern religious practice.

St. Brendans Well. Located in a field a bit of a walk from a desolate dirt road and on the other side of a fence and a creek from where one can park. You have to want to get here, to get here.

The cross associated with an ancient church right near St. Brendan's Well.  The church is long gone.

Living on an island, especially near the ocean means seeing an awful lot of water that one cannot drink. Having a source of fresh water is essential to life. Running water here is easy to find, but natural springs are rare. Imagine the power or value such a feature might have had 5000 years ago. A spring might have been seen to have healing powers or even been seen as a passage to the underworld of the ancient gods.

St. Fursey's well. So secluded we could not find it, in spite of the sign.

Whatever the local beliefs 5000 years ago, when Christians came along they tended to claim the spiritual places in the name of Christ and name them after famous saints. Associating a saint name with a place lent characteristics to the space and gave a cause to retell the story of that saint. It would also make a place to go to on the feast day of that saint to have a celebration to remember their mighty deeds, holy visions or their charitable actions as models for us.

St. Bridget's well near the cliffs of Moher. Behind the statue is actually just the entrance to a tunnel about 20 feet long lined with hundreds of memorials, statues, candles and funerary scripts.

St. Bridget's well. Directly above this space is the edge of a graveyard. Just outside is a very busy road. Those things account for a lot of the leavings in this place.

Most wells we went hunting for were in quite out of the way places. Some were more sheltered and more cared for, others seemed a bit worn down and neglected. At least one was just re-consecrated as late as 1994 and is right on a roadside so it is easy to find. Wells in modern times serve as focal points for prayer and supplication. They serve as gathering spots. Mostly they serve as a focus for hope. The hope is in God, and the focus is yet another thin place. A place where one feels closer to God.

St. Mary's well and grotto. There is an upturned boat look to the rock walls. The grotto was dedicated in 1997, but the well at the base has been there thousands of years. It is literally along a roadside today.

At the wells in secluded out of the way places it is easier for me to sense a holiness about the place. However, the outpouring at St. Bridget's well in particular is a testament to the need of people to find hope. St. Bridget's well lies at the foot of a cemetery and has hundreds of objects related to deceased people.

Maumanorig is an ancient monastic site that has remnants of a church walls an enclosing wall and...

...a rock with Ogham writing and a cross.

Of course in early Christian times there were some innovations brought to spirituality - Monasteries, abbeys and oratories. In Ireland starting in the 5th century, religious folks sought solitude and quite to reflect and pray. They sought the assurance a rule of life could bring for how they were to live. This often led to communal life with other believers. So they would stack up rocks to build simple shelters and huddle against the cold and live a rather ascetic life.

This bull (The brown and white one on the right) guarded the cows from Mary and me walking by. He faced us the whole time and did not settle until we left the field and shut the gate at Maumanorig.

Sometimes the shelter housed just one or a few people. Sometimes they grew to hold hundreds. Some of the practices these people pursued still echo in our culture today. Going away on retreat today might be for a day or a weekend, and many Christians continue that practice today. These people devoted themselves to prayer and work. We have real people of prayer in our communities today who focus a great deal of energy on the needs they are aware of.

St Manchan Oratory. A small church and a stone in front with a cross on it marks an ancient Christian grave.

Monastic sites number in the thousands around Ireland. They are generally distinguished from non- monastic homesteads by some Christian artifacts or cultural markers. Often homes were made of wood, mud and thatch, Monasteries and churches usually started that way also but if the site was succeeding a more permanent rock structure generally followed. This seems to reflect human understanding of building dwellings to last a lifetime, but workshops spaces and grave markers for eternity.

Reask monastic site. This place has lots of graves, standing stones, and several interesting double rooms.

While there are thousands of monastic spots, some stand out as especially interesting. Sometimes they have unique architecture, sometimes they have amazing remaining crosses, and sometimes they have spectacular views. The most spectacular oratory (a tiny church) that I have seen is the Gallarus Oratory. This place never fails to impress. On the day we visited, my daughter and her husband were visiting and posed in the window 

The Gallarus Oratory.

Mary, Kristina and Josh

When a well, or a monastic site does not quite inspire enough, there are also holy mountains. The site of pilgrimage from ancient times to modern, Mt. Brandon, calls the soul to a very wild place. I'd love to show a picture of the peak, but in all the time we spent looking for it, never once did the clouds clear to see it. Mt. Brandon is just under 1000 meters tall. It is steep and rocky and on the day I went up it was shrouded in clouds.

Mt. Brandon inside a cloud. Yes, that is the path ahead.

The pilgrims way is marked by regular white posts so even in bad fog, one can pick their way up and down the mountain. There is also a series crosses to mark regular stopping points for prayer. the first cross stands at a place where when one looks in the correct direction, one can see Skellig Michael in the distance, just above the ridge line to the left of the tip of the cross.

Skellig Michael is faintly visible to the left.

There will be more on wells soon, but for now, I will sum this post up with an observation. When Christianity arrived here in the 5th century it spread quickly and was embraced intensely. Some of the hallmarks of that Christian movement was a focus on how one lived and not on how others lived. It focused on a personal relationship to God and a communal one. It had no army to back it up and so spread through good works and grace not power or force. There was quickly established a variety of spiritual practices so that the faith could be practiced by villagers, monks, hermits and farmers.

A shrine to Mary, about 100 feet off the ground at a shale quarry on Valentia Island.

If you want to pursue a deep faith today, one of the challenges is to seek out what speaks to your soul and how your souls responds to the call. How will we live out the Song of God in the new land he has given us?

Celtic Spirituality 7 - The little things

The view from Dingle Harbor looking toward Eask Tower

One of the beauties of Celtic Spirituality is its connection to nature and the everyday. It is grand to climb a mountain to find an expansive vista, but there is delight in the everyday and the seemingly mundane as well. Walking to the end of the Dingle pier one can easily see the knob on top of the hill opposite. That is Eask Tower. It was built in 1847 to provide a day marker for ships looking for the harbor. Dingle Harbor is hidden from view with a narrow channel allowing entry and exit. It makes for a very calm bay.

A break in the clouds allows sun to glint off the water

Driving or walking around on the peninsula of Dingle one is constantly rewarded with scenery that delights. The constant change of scenery and of the environment is in contrast to the permanence of the mountains and the ocean. In a human life span we don't notice the movement of continents or whole islands being worn out by the sea. It lends a sense of permanence about nature and about God. At the same time, on smaller scales, change is always happening and easy to spot.

A pristine beach, before footprints since the last tide.

As humans we like to consider our impact on everything. We are often occupied with making or leaving our mark. One reason I like beaches is they are like nature's Etch-a-sketch. Each tide erases whatever castle, or writing, or hole, or footprint we purposely or carelessly leave. Twice a day there is a blank slate. I like this rhythm. The echo for me is twice a day I pray to renew my soul and to start afresh.

Rocks on the beach.

There is drama to be found on many scales in nature. A rock sticking up on the beach reminds me of the hardness of my heart and head; that part which I do not renew; that part which is stubborn; that part which clings to regret, shame or grudges. To let go of those things is a life's work. But just like the rock slowly worn by the sea, so a regular focus on letting go leads to softening the hardness in me.

A grassy hillside. In Ireland these are in endless supply.

Heading inland reveals still more beauty. I marvel at the diversity of life and the abundance of all that grows. There are precious few flat places here. Everything is a hillside or a cliff. And on every surface something is growing. Even exposed rocks end up with lichen and moss.

Snails.

A pair of divergently colored snails meet on the road... It sounds like the start of a joke. These beauties are just doing whatever it is that snails do, at whatever pace they prefer. I left them alone because I have no idea what is best for them. I presume they have made it this far without my help, they can make the rest of their way without it too. Funny, I have a hard time doing that with my fellow humans. It seems I often have ideas about how she could live her life better, or how he could be happier. I pray I can let people be, like I let the snails be and just delight in the beauty that each person is just by being alive.

Foxglove and a tiny stream.

I appreciate the flowers growing all around. Little splashes of color in an otherwise expansive green landscape. I am reminded to keep an eye out for the special people who come and go in my life. Individuals who stand out with particular beauty of spirit. People who radiate the best of humanity and thereby remind me of God.

A stone with cups on the street in Dingle

A very old stone in a very public space. Nature is cool and all, but cities grow where they grow and when they envelope ancient things one must decide what to do with the ancient thing. This sacred stone is right on the street in Dingle. The pavement goes right to it and there is even a fire hydrant right by it. There are curb stones on the far side. They seem to have built the street around it. The cups on this stone were probably used in ancient times to grind grain. During the suppression of Catholics, sand was dropped into the hollows to let passersby know a secret Mass would be held in a safe place. Imagine being a Christian and having to be careful to avoid persecution by other Christians! My prayer for today - May we all be one. May I do my part to make it so.

Celtic Spirituality 6 - St. Patrick's Chair

Baptizing a place

St. Patrick's chair and the rock of Boheh

There are many locations around Ireland that have been holy places for thousands of years. Standing stones, piles of rocks, groves of trees, and wells are the most common. Some were associated with the ancient gods, some with healing properties some with a natural sacred ambiance. It is interesting to note that places with a sacred ambiance often get baptized into the new faith when it arrives. It is a blending of old and new or a recognition that the presence of God was noticed before Christianity and continues to this day. In any case it is more than just recycling.

This spot has been known for 4000-6000 years.

This chunk of rock has a very special quality. When standing here, looking towards Croagh Patrick, twice a year, April and August, it appears the setting sun rolls down the slope of the mountain. In modern times this was noticed in 1991. One can guess it was also noticed in ancient times. The timing in April suggests it could have been an indicator to plant crops for a successful harvest. Any kind of natural feature that would help one notice the changing of the seasons, would be pretty special. The name Boheh, is just the name of the nearest village. The rock itself has a significant number of cups and rings carved into it. These can be found in many places in Ireland and are assumed to have had some ritual significance. When one first spots a ring, it is like looking back into time toward people who lived here thousands of years ago.

Prominent rings on the rock.

Of course Christianity showed up and found a way to incorporate the local mystery into the larger Christian Mystery. They baptized the place and carved a cross into it. Christian worship celebrations have happened here for at least 1400 years. There is every reason to believe that this rock was visited by St. Patrick himself at some point.

If you look closely, you can see the cross. (Click on the picture to see it larger.)

There are many footpaths and bike paths that travel around Ireland as pilgrimage routes. This rock is alongside a footpath that in medieval times was a popular pilgrimage route from Ballintubber Abbey to the top of Croagh Patrick. It is still used today, but much less than previously. The distance for such a walk is about 30km or almost 20 miles. Certainly not all of the path is this beautiful, but this little bit is sublime.

Pilgrim path by St. Patrick's Chair.

Celtic Spirituality5 - Croagh Patrick

Croagh Patrick

The peak on the way down during about a 10 second window when it was actually visible.

Climbing Croagh Patrick is a peak experience. I have been up it before in the company of others. This time, I went solo. There is something to be said for both experiences. Camaraderie provides lots of comfort. I found the solo climb much more challenging. Having been before means I have a sense of the effort required. Before setting out for the mountain, Mary and I had morning prayer together.

I started early; about 8am.

At the base of the mountain Mary dropped me off.

Mary dropped me at the trail head. With plenty of admonitions to be careful and promises to be there when I returned, we kissed and said goodbye. Saying goodbye is an interesting thing. When I turned to go, that was the moment I started being alone. And yet I was not alone. Mary continued to pray for me the whole time I was gone. And, when we seek God on his holy mountain, even when no other people are around, we are surrounded by the cloud of witnesses who have gone before, even as we become a part of that cloud for those who come after. One of the true beauties of the Christian faith is that we are never alone. Walking with a Celtic perspective put me in tune with that cloud of witnesses; in tune with the trail; and in tune with the God who made it and us all.

Statue of Patrick in the foreground and the holy mountain in the background.

The first pause is to have a photo with St. Patrick and the mountain that has his name. Patrick is so important in Ireland. He is widely viewed as the fellow who brought Christian faith to Ireland. We actually have his writings handed down through time. His confession is worth a read. Just a heads up: his confession is not a proclamation of his sin, but rather a proclamation of his faith. The legend we have now is that Patrick banished all the snakes form Ireland from this very mountain. The fossil record shows there have been no snakes in Ireland since the last Ice Age. I'd say Patrick did a spectacular job of banishing snakes. Aside from the fable, Patrick is credited with bringing peace to warring tribes and using a three leaf clover to explain the Holy Trinity. There is an annual pilgrimage up the mountain with many doing the trip barefoot. I am not so tough. If you look closer you will see why.

Going from Mild to Wild

Going into the wilderness

Crossing from pavement to path happens just after the statue. This boundary is important. I come from a very civilized place. I have a neat, clean job in a safe environment. One can certainly encounter God there, but this adventure is about encountering God in a wild place. So pavement, which is so easy to walk on, is actually counterproductive to the adventure today. The wild place I am headed to is cold, windy, wet, and a bit mysterious. I did not get to see the peak until I was standing upon it.

Looking back early on.

The first part of the hike is rocky and muddy. It is strenuous, but I was fresh and gained altitude quickly.  Looking back over Clew Bay, one can see the tide is headed out. My fresh, strong feeling reminds me of when I first felt invigorated to seek after God in my life. I was in my early 20's and had an experience of God which stoked a fire in me to seek him more deeply. I was young, strong and open to wherever the path might take me. I was full of idealism and had a perfect image of a perfect God. I was a sinner who had received forgiveness and saw blue sky and smooth sailing ahead. I did not look at the rocks in the path. I did not see the uphill climb ahead. I was dazzled by the sun.

Entering the clouds meant getting serious rain on myself.

As the climb continued, I found myself winded, working hard, sweating hard. The first time I climbed this mountain I was a bit surprised at how the cold, wet wind stung. This time I had better clothes. As the trail entered the clouds, the rain started in earnest. With the rain coming down, I wondered how long I would be willing to continue. I was a bit past half way up. Being alone means wrestling with this myself. Not having companions to urge me on, or who by continuing their efforts, spur me to greater effort. This is one critical factor of Christian life that many who are "spiritual but not religious" might miss. Having people in my life who are serious about their faith and willing to talk about their faith with me gives me a chance to grow and be challenged. My human nature wants the easy road, but the higher calling often requires something else. Having companions means a clearer vision of the higher calling and people who will support me when I am weak. On this day I called upon the thousands, maybe millions who had done this journey before me and asked them to lift me up - to strengthen my heart; and to carry me through.

St. Patrick Chapel.

I had gotten off the main trail and found myself on a slope that was quite a bit more rugged than the actual trail. I was headed in the right direction, but in a more difficult way. How much of my life has been spent working harder than necessary, but with good intention. The effort is never wasted. I paid attention to the error, so coming back would be easier. The clouds enveloped me and chilled me and kept the whole top of the mountain veiled. God is so often a mystery to me. My own faith sometimes seems to carry on in a void of input or output. I know where I want to be and I trudge along, hoping for a positive outcome. I trust that the effort is enough. I trust that God will take care of the bits I don't have the wisdom or strength for, until I do. When I do go wrong (which is far too often) I try hard to get back on the right path as soon as possible, because, there is a goal.

The way to know for certain you have made it.

The top of the mountain has a simple, white chapel that signals the end of the climb, but not the end of the journey. The sign that reads Croagh Patrick is evidence that you made it. Sometimes one can see Clew Bay behind the sign; not today. Being on top meant taking time to thank God for the experience so far. Taking time to pray for the many who supported me to get here. Taking time for a bite to eat and huddle against the cold wet wind in the lee of the chapel. With no view and biting wind, I was not going to stay long. I texted Mary to let her know I had made it and would be heading down soon. I took the time for a few more prayers and before I began the descent -

The chapel wall to my left, the clouds parted for a glimpse of Clew Bay

- a brief break in the cloud cover.  I thanked God for the break and the view and turned to go back down. Loose rock, mud and a steep decline were the big challenges ahead. I had walking poles with me, which aided greatly. How many times in my life have I used crutches to get me through? I have prevailed upon friends, faith, drink, distraction and so many other things to make the day go easier. I do not regret the crutches, I delight that I have them, and long for a day when I am strong enough not to need them. Today the task was quite simple - just get down safely. I had worked out, but was not done sweating yet.

Clew bay several hours later on the descent.

As I got to the bottom of the steepest bit I encountered the first of the other people I met that day. Two lovely lady's headed uphill asked how much farther? I shared with them what I knew and pointed out how I had gone wrong so they could avoid it on their hike. They were grateful. I can't help but think of those people who have gone before me in faith and who we still tell stories of. Their failings help me figure out what not to do and their success help me figure out what to do. The cloud of witnesses is more present than ever. I get to be one of the encouragers for many people. One of the prayers Mary and I pray all the time includes asking that Christ to "be in the heart of each to whom I speak and in the mouth of each who speaks to me." I am aware of this prayer as we speak. I am keenly aware of it as I encounter each of the 50 or so people as I descend. When I pop out from under the clouds I am greeted with a spectacular view, sunshine and immediate warmer temperatures.

Mary photoed me returning.

Thanking God as I sweated profusely, I continued down. Each step rejoicing that I was getting closer to the finest example of Christ in my life, my wife, Mary. Mary was waiting for me at the bottom and took many photos of me approaching. That I am wanted and loved by such a wonderful person is proof of goodness in this world.

The hike is complete, but the journey continues. I pray that Christ will be in my heart too, as others meet me.

Celtic Spirituality - 4, Lindesfarne and Melrose

Lindesfarne

Lindesfarne Priory

The iconic images of Lindesfarne are of the castle and the priory. The priory is old, the castle much less so. The priory was founded by St. Aidan in 634. The first structure was wood and thatch. Later a stone structure covered in lead was built. The priory did well until Viking raiders ran the monks off and established new rules. It was reestablished as a Benedictine monastery in 1093. It lasted until King Henry VIII suppressed it along with many, many abbeys in 1536. That was about the time the castle was built mostly as a fortification against Scottish invaders.

The castle is barely visible through the fog, from the north end of the island.

The time we spent on Lindesfarne was mostly foggy and rainy. I took the opportunity to walk the perimeter of the island and Mary and I both attended multiple prayers services each day. The walk around the island was a time to go deeper inside; to spend time directly with God in nature. The fog lent an air of eerie stillness dampening out all sounds except for the continuous sound of the surf. The sheep were still and even the birds took this time to hunker down. I tried to imagine the time of St. Aidan. It would have been a time of no fear of invasion; little to distract from the effort of living a Godly life and witnessing to the others living in the community.

Stile

Crossing the fields today means crossing an occasional wall or fence. The stile is a design that allows humans to cross over a fence and keeps sheep inside the fence. The fence is meant to keep the sheep where the humans want them to be. The stile is meant to give humans freedom to go where they want to. This stile is an elegant design with a single grip to steady yourself as you cross the barbed upper strand of wire. What a lovely metaphor. A single point of anchor can steady a person as they venture out from where the sheep are safe. We each have times in our lives when we go beyond our earlier boundaries. Where is the anchor we need to keep ourselves steady as we go?

Lindesfarne Labyrinth

Also on the walk, near the castle is a labyrinth. It is made of round rocks, worn smooth by the sea placed in a pattern on the grass; simple and functional.  It is a silent call to prayer and meditation, available to any who pass that way. The labyrinth has been a place of excellent reflection for me. I often reflect on how my walk with God has gone through twists and turns as I approach the center. At varying times I am closer and farther from the inner life of Christ. Always tending toward the center, but often turning completely away as I yearn to reach the middle. In the center is a thin place. A place where I have often felt at home with God. A place to rest. A place of stillness. The journey out again is a reminder to take what I have gained with me as I go back into a world that needs peace and love more than ever.

A wooden artwork similar to the one at Durham made of stone. This one inside St. Mary the Virgin church in Lindesfarne. This is a depiction the monks carrying St. Cuthbert's remains to escape  the Viking invaders.

The walk around the island was like a mini-pilgrimage, trying to be in touch with a holiness and a person from 1500 years ago. I imagine that somehow life was simpler then and so those lucky people could follow God without distraction. That might have been true in a sense, but they also died of disease or injury much more frequently. There were prolonged periods of war and plague through history. There was also ignorance of science that lead to superstition and some really bad choices medically. It is hard to imagine fleeing the Vikings and carrying a casket with the body of your recently deceased leader. My efforts of piety seem so small compared to that amazing effort. But I do like being able to visit a dentist. Trying to balance real world requirements and real desire for time with God can seem tricky. These people made an art of constantly being aware of the nearness of God. What if I could, in the dentist chair, be aware of the gift of modern dentistry and then be grateful for the other humans who serve my needs by caring for my teeth? What if I could lift up all the folks in the supply chain who make the drills and the forms and the chairs and the floss in grateful thanksgiving? Can a dentist visit be a pilgrimage of its own? Can that time be spent in the inner life with Christ? Can that time be in a special relationship with those standing, or sitting closest to me for the time?

Smelling roses.

Praying each morning and each evening at multiple venues throughout the village put a different rhythm into our lives as well. The song, If I were a Rich Man from "The Fiddler on the Roof" has a line that has resonated in me since I was young -  "...if I were rich, I'd have the time that I lack, to sit in the synagogue and pray". This has been the richest time of my life - to have the luxury of praying, in a community, three times a day. Which brings me to a final thought on Lindesfarne for now: stopping and smelling the roses. Noticing the beauty and wonder of the world around me and how it points to a loving creator is something I do more often. I am intent on remembering to do this always.

Melrose Abbey

Melrose Abbey

This is the final stop for tracing the lives of Aidan, Cuthbert, and Bede. The "modern" ruins of Melrose are not the historical old abbey, but are important in their own right. The old ruins are about 2 miles away and where Aidan first set up the abbey. It was a great location at the time, being  almost completely surrounded by a bend in the river made it easily defensible. Unfortunately today what is left of the original abbey is barely noticeable. The modern ruins are impressive. One can see the size and shape of the abbey and the buildings that made up the complex. Some of the remaining stonework is still quite beautiful.

The portal where only the ordained could get to the other side. It was huge inside, but the non-ordained were relegated to the courtyard; never experiencing the beauty of worship close up. This building was begun in 1136.

The history of the old abbey is what I am concerned with. Aidan set it up and when Aidan died there Cuthbert came to the abbey in response to a vision of Aidan's spirit ascending to heaven. Cuthbert's call was true and he became a hugely important saint. Cuthbert got his first training in the old abbey. I have written quite a bit about Cuthbert and it is very interesting to see where he got his start.

The night stair.

There are many things about Melrose that are interesting. The night stair is just a remnant on a wall instead of a full stair case. One can imagine the monks coning in from the cloisters at 3am to pray. This is a particular spiritual practice that I find fascinating and thank God I am not called to follow.

The heart of Robert the Bruce is buried under this stone.

At Melrose it is believed that the heart of Robert the Bruce is interred. There is good evidence to suggest that under the marker really is the heart of the man that defeated the English at Bannockburn.

St. Aiden

I have put Melrose and Lindesfarne together on this post because of they are the bookends of Cuthbert's life. Cuthbert started his monastic vocation at Melrose because of St. Aidan's influence. He finally died at Lindesfarne at an abbey founded by Aidan. As I consider the lives of these two men, I am struck by the echoes of Aidan in Cuthbert and of Cuthbert in the area. When I think of those whose lives echo in mine, I thank God profusely for their influences. When I think of whose lives I may one day be echoed in, I am humbled and pray to be more like Cuthbert and Aidan.

Let the life I live and the example I set be pointers to a relationship with God. Amen.